Tosantos at the Cádiz markets

In Cádiz the feast of All Saints is known, for short, as Tosantos. On its eve it was customary to stock up at the market on seasonal produce, and in 1876 the municipal committee of the market in plaza de la Libertad decided to decorate the stalls, the square and its surroundings with gas lighting, the city's coat of arms, lanterns and flags, and to end the night with a dance. That was the start of the tradition, which lives on at the Central Market, built on the former orchard of a Franciscan convent.

Over time the stallholders began decorating their stalls with the city's typical irony, turning fruit, vegetables, fish and meat into scenes commenting on current political and social events, a kind of carnival in a single picture. Today the City Council, through its Festivals Department, organises the festival with the Association of Municipal Market Retailers (Asodemer), with a decoration competition at the Central Market and at the Virgen del Rosario market.

At the two municipal markets: the Central Market in the historic centre and the Virgen del Rosario market outside the old walls. Activities spill over into the surrounding area, such as plaza de la Libertad and Erytheia park, opposite the Virgen del Rosario market. In recent years the opening speech has been given at the La Merced Flamenco Arts Centre or at the La Tía Norica Puppet Theatre.

On Monday afternoon the markets open their doors, at around six, so the public can tour the decorated stalls. There are categories for meat, fish, fruit, vegetables and miscellaneous, and among the winners the Joaquín Pecci Trophy goes to the wittiest, most Cádiz-style stall; the winner's photo illustrates the following year's poster. Around the markets there are street bands, brass groups and children's activities, and bags of fruit are handed out to children.

At home these are days for 'huesos de santo' marzipan, fritters and sweet-potato desserts, and for autumn fruits such as walnuts, almonds, jujubes and dried figs. The City Council presents the festival as Cádiz's answer to Halloween.